80cc motorized bicycle with performance parts....
compression slant head,CNS carburetor with thumb choke,MSD 8.5 spark plug wire and boot,b6hs spark plug, 36 tooth sprocket. It goes about 58 mph ...
1966 Ford Galaxie checking for spark.
1966 Ford galaxie Custom 500 just replaced the ignition points. Been trying to start the motor to get gas through the lines. He's checking to ...
part one of Rob's first stint out on Saturday of the 24 hours of Lemons ...
After a few laps the engine went down on power, I came in under caution to find a spark plug wire had fallen off of # 8 cylinder. Went back out ...
My truck
tensioner Battery Fuel pump with switching unit and strainer Fuel filter Spark Plugs Spark Plug wires Air filter Flow master dual exhaust with SS ...
Diagnostic Tech: '91 Cutlass Ciera No-start
Sometimes you just have to see if the car will work with you so I let it sit and idle in the work bay. It wasn't long at all before the car cut out a couple times and stalled. It would start, then stall, start then stall... until finally a crank with no start. Experience would say to notice if the service engine light works with the key. It does. Now the things to know are if there is ignition spark, fuel pressure and injector signal but I want to go to something that gets a bad rep for no good reason and show you just how useful it can be. The diagnostic trouble tree. Yes you can follow a diagnostic tree completely and fully only to find no final answer or even a wrong answer but if you carefully use the tree it can be a learning tool. You have to do more than follow each step mindlessly. You have to get pro-active and think about what you are being asked to do, how it will help and what it tells you. Once you do that the diagnostic steps become lessons in learning the system you are testing.
If we start with the Mitchell chart we'll see a suggestion to look the system over under the hood. Inspect vacuum hoses, plug wires and connections. Not a bad idea but the car was sitting here running fine until it cut out and stalled. So I'm not going to spend a lot of time looking for broken vacuum hoses or leaky plug wires. Checking connectors is good but I'm not going to get deep into that either. Initially we want to get right to the heart of the matter and if I'm not getting spark or fuel because of a bad connection it will show up later too. A quick once over and those things look good enough to me. Next is to remove the plugs for inspection. Well I'm not going to do that at this point either. If I have spark to the plugs at the wires, fuel pressure to the rail and injector signal then it would make more sense to pull the plugs and look for fouling preventing them from firing. But again, the car was running and did not flood out. It just stalled suddenly so we'll skip the plug removal. As long as we are aware of what steps we are performing and what we aren't, as long as we continue in a logical approach and step by step, we'll get some useful testing done. Notice how the testing tree does teach a logical approach, even if we aren't using every suggestion as presented. It says look for obvious problems, then begin ignition system inspection with the spark plugs. Instead of plugs we'll look for ignition spark at the wires. I'm going to take a simple adjustable spark tester, open the gap wide so that I know there is plenty of power in the spark and run a plug wire to the tester.
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